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Stoves with Water Simulating Fireplaces

Fireplace Reservoirs
with Water

Dry Stoves Simulating Fireplaces

Other Products
 
Technical Description Application Plan Power Supply

FIREPLACES, STOVES AND FIREBOXES TO BUILD IN
     (WITHOUT FORCED VENTILATION AND WATER HEAT EXCHANGER)
FIREPLACES AND FIREBOXES TO BUILD IN (WITH ? WATER HEATER)
RESIDENTIAL BOILERS




PROBLEMS WITH THE CHIMNEY






HOW TO HEAT WITH WOOD



FIREPLACES, STOVES AND FIREBOXES TO BUILD IN
(WITHOUT FORCED VENTILATION AND WATER HEAT EXCHANGER)


TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION
The fireplaces of Prity are intended for heating of private houses and public premises
using solid fuel. The variety of models permits the formation of the desired interior with the
purpose of creating coziness, aesthetics and heat comfort. For cooking the technology of
embers, in an oven, on a plate can be used.

The indicated heat power of the models have been fixed after investigations according to
standardized conditions. Achieving the desired power depends on the selected fuel with the
necessary caloricity and humidity; its subsequent kindling and refueling; the regulation of the
primary and the secondary air as well as the draught; the organizing of effective air heat
exchange etc.
All models are made of basic sheet iron for the body of the fireplace, 2 mm thick, and a
plate 3-4 mm. They are equipped with a cast iron grate, doors for refueling, ash-pan, brick-
facing, and a valve for adjusting the draught of the chimney. The fireboxes have a thermo
shock glass ceramics pane, and the ovens have a hardened glass pane.
For calculating the necessary fuel it must be taken into account that for the heating of one
cubic metre, 25 to 180 Watts are necessary depending on the exposure, the insulation, the
outside temperature and the wind.
It is known that the correlation between the price and the caloricity of the chosen fuel
indicates that the heating with solid fuel is the most economical method. As a result of the
long experience and the tests carried out in the laboratories of "Prity 95" Ltd., optimum
characteristics and 60-80 % efficiency for all produced fireboxes, stoves and boilers have
been achieved.


INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

The fireplace is placed on a stable horizontal fireproof floor. For protecting the floor a
stable and fireproof base can be used, which shall stick out before the fireplace at least 50 cm
in front and 30 cm at the side.
In the radiating area of the fireplace, at a distance of 80 cm around it, there shall not be
any objects burnable and damageable by the radiated heat.
Prior to (Before) connecting the fireplace to the chimney, consult a skilled worker.
The connecting elements (rosette and smoking pipes) must be fixed tightly and lasting, so
that they may not get into (enter) the passage section of the chimney. The smoking pipes shall
have the same size as the connecting pipe of the fireplace.
It is advisable that the fireplace work with a separate chimney. If other appliances are
connected to the same chimney, it must be calculated for that.
Fresh air must enter (get in) the fireplace at least 4m3/h output. When necessary a flow from adjacent premises or outside air is ensured.
The burning process of the fireplace must not feel shortage of air on the action of
gravitational or forced aspirations, since this is a prerequisite for insufficient combustion or
returning of flue gases in the premises.


OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS

Fuel

Use only raw chemical natural wood, as well as wooden briquettes without adhesives.

It is important that the wood be dry. Dry are called those wood which have humidity
under 20 %. This is achieved when they stay in a dry and airy place at least for 2 years. The
wood shall be kept cut and arranged as their thickness must be between 5 and 15 cm.
Why the humid wood shall not be used?
1. The humidity in the wood decreases their warmth when burning. A big part of the
heat is spent on evaporation of the water, and the rest can turn out insufficient to
ensure the necessary heating. For example, 20 kg humid wood can mean 10 kg dry
wood and 10 litres water, added to the fire.
2. The water vapour decreases the combustion temperature and contributes to the
formation of soot, which accumulates and forms a black hard layer on the walls of
the combustion chamber, glass ceramics, pipes and the chimney.
3. The pollution of the environment increases because the gases leave the chimney
unburnt.


Kindling
The destination of the kindling is to warm up the walls of the combustion chamber, the
pipes and the chimney to create draught though a stable blazing fire without being necessary
to open the door often to finish its preparation.
1. Before kindling clean the ash off the grate.
2. Open the valves for the primary air and for the flue gases completely.
3. Put two chopped pieces of wood in the combustion chamber, parallel to one another,
from both sides of the grate.
4. Crush a read newspaper and put it on the front part of the grate among the logs. Don't
use glossy or impregnated paper.
5. Put small dry twigs on the paper. It is preferable easy burning kindling of softwood.
Arrange the kindling, so that they may not fall down and stifle the arising fire. Put
some finely chopped logs on the kindling.
6. Kindle the paper. When the paper burns up, close the door of the combustion chamber.
7. Leave the valve of the primary air entirely open, until the flame spreads all over the
whole combustion chamber.
The purpose is to kindle the fireplace at the first try, with a match, without unnecessary
fuss and repeated adding of paper and kindling.


Fuelling with wood

Don't expect that the heat radiated from the fire be permanent in time. Logs burn in the
best way in cycles. Cycle is the time from the kindling of the logs put on the embers till their
reduction to a new layer of embers. Each cycle can ensure heating for several hours
depending on how much logs and how they are fuelled.
Never add only one or two logs each time. Their bigger number is necessary to form a
layer of embers which keeps the heat and maintains the fire.
The finely chopped logs, flung about crosswise burn more quickly because the entering air
is able to reach all the pieces simultaneously. Such arrangement is suitable when the heat is
necessary to be given off intensively.
To achieve a long stable fire, gather the embers on the grate and put bigger logs compactly
on them. The close and parallel arrangement of the logs prevents penetrating of air and flames
among them and preserves the interior of the pile to burn later. Open entirely the primary air.
When the logs most outside kindle, decrease the air to achieve the intensity of burning desired
by you.

How many logs are necessary depends on the output (power) of the fireplace and the
desired heating. The amount of dry logs to fuel is 0.36 to 0,5 kg per hour for each kilowatt
useful heat output. The smaller number is for drier logs.
Signs of right burning
1. Burning must run in the presence of flames till the logs convert into embers. The
purpose is not to allow any smouldering and smoking. The smoke is no normal
product during the burning of the logs, and it is a consequence of bad combustion.
2. If there are fireproof bricks in the fireplace, they must maintain their natural colour
in yellow-brown, not in black.
3. With dried logs and sufficient primary air the immediate kindling must be achieved
on each new refueling.
4. The glass ceramics of the door (if there is any) must remain clean.
5. The gases going out of the top of the chimney must be transparent or white. The
grey smoke indicates that there is smouldering or bad burning.


Chimney
The chimney is intended to draw the combustion products out of the fireplace and to
throw them away in the atmosphere beyond (outside the limits of) the abode.
The upward draught or the "pulling" of the chimney is a result of the combination
between its height and the difference in the temperatures of the flue gases and the air outside.
The column of hot flue gases in the chimney has smaller weight than the equivalent column of
cold air outside, so that the pressure in the lower end is smaller than the atmospheric (air)
pressure outside. This quite small difference in the pressures creates the draught.
The greater draught permits the use of a fireplace with a bigger opening of the combustion
chamber, respectively with a bigger door and glass pane. The lower draught is a prerequisite
for difficult kindling and returning of flue gases, and it is overcome through quick kindling
and burning of dry, thin and fast-burning sticks and paper. After kindling of the fire and
warming up of the chimney, its draught increases. For economical regime and high efficiency
after the warming up of the chimney, the draught must be decreased to 5-10 Pa, so that there
should be no return of the flue gases (smoking) with a closed door.

The main causes of insufficient draught are the following:
- layering of soot inside the chimney, which decreases its diameter and increases the
resistance of the rising flue gases;
- a cracked wall of the chimney or a loose rosette;
- loose smoke pipes, or pipes pushed deeply in the chimney, as in this way they
decrease the diameter or plug up the chimney;
- The use of a single chimney with a small draught by several stoves on the same level
(in close proximity);
- Smoking also appears when the weather outside has suddenly got warmer - the warm
gases from the kindling of the fire can't escape through the cold chimney. In this
case a bigger amount of quickly burning sticks and paper is used. The same effect
takes place while attempting to kindle a fire on the first (ground) floor, provided the
same or an adjacent chimney is already being used by a fireplace on the top floor;
- when the ceiling is not air-tight or there are open windows on an upper floor, the
effect "staircase-chimney" takes place, creating a reverse draught;
- When a chimney is located in an area of overpressure caused by a wind.
On right connection, servicing and maintenance the fireplace doesn't give off smoking
emissions in the premises. If nevertheless this occurs, the premises are aired and the cause of
the filling with smoke must be found out and removed.


Don't burn refuse!
Burning of refuse leads do unpredictable consequences because in contrast to the dry
wood, the garbage contains various substances which react, when they burn together. For
example, the garbage contains various coloured papers and plastics. When you burn them,
you don't destroy them, but you only change their chemical composition, adding a whole
cocktail of poisons in the flue gases. The result is the same when we burn each kind of refuse,
only the kind of the emitted poisons changes. One of the products on burning of the papers
and the plastics is dioxin - a highly poisonous chemical, which doesn't decompose and gets
into the tissues of the animals and the people. All the produced fireplaces and stoves have
been designed and tested for operation with dry wood without glues and paints. It is allowed
the use of an ordinary newspaper only during the initial kindling.


Don't burn:
- garbage,
- stuck or painted softwood,
- plywood or boards of wooden parts,
- wooden sleepers.

Cleaning, maintaining and preservation
After purchase, the fireplace must be carried carefully and be protected from mechanical
damages.
It is painted with thermo-resistant black-lead which self-bakes during the first one or two
kindles and becomes mechanically stable. When the paint self-bakes, the premises must be
aired to remove the fumes.
During operation the door of the fireplace must be closed. On opening of the door to
refuel the openings for the primary air are closed and one shall be careful not to drop down
fuel and prevent it from falling out of the fireplace.
The power of the fireplace is regulated with the help of the valves for the primary air and
on the outlet for the flue gases.
The cooking stoves are switched over in regime "baking" through pulling the valve out
over the oven.
Don't touch the fireplace with your bare hands, while it is hot.
The ash-pan shall be cleaned regularly. Don't throw the ash in plastic vessels.
Clean regularly the passage sections of the flue gases in the fireplace and the pipes.
The painted surfaces are cleaned with a damp cloth. Don't use cleaning detergents. If you
want to freshen the paint, use a suitable phial of sprayer.
To clean easier the cavities in the cooking stove, the movable bottom of the oven is raised.
The glass pane is wiped with a damp towel, and when necessary it can be washed with
cleaning detergents and running water after its removing from the door. The hardened glass
panes are washed and dried when cold.
To prevent the condensation and a possible corrosion when the fireplace is not operated
for a long time (for example during the non-heating period), it shall be cleaned from the ash
and remainders of fuel. Leave the door a little ajar, and the adjusting elements - open, for a
better circulation around and through the fireplace.
Do dot perform any unauthorized modifications in the design!
During repairs only original spare parts by the producers shall be used.






FIREPLACES AND FIREBOXES TO BUILD IN
With a water heater (water jacket)


TECHNICHL DESCRIPTION

The fireplaces of Prity are intended for heating of private houses and public premises using
solid fuel. The variety of models permits the formation of the desired interior with the purpose of
creating coziness, aesthetics and heat comfort. For cooking the technology of embers, in an oven,
on a plate can be used.



The indicated heat powers of the models have been fixed after investigations according to
standardized conditions. Achieving the desired power depends on the selected fuel with the
necessary caloricity and humidity; its subsequent kindling and refueling; the regulation of the
primary and the secondary air as well as the draught; the organizing of effective air heat exchange
etc.
All models are made of basic sheet iron for the body of the fireplace, 2 mm thick, and a plate 3-
4 mm. The water jackets are made of sheet steel 5 mm, 4 mm and 3 mm thick, according to the
respective requirements. They are equipped with a cast iron grate, doors for refueling, ash-pan,
brick-facing, and a valve for adjusting the draught of the chimney. The fireboxes have a thermo
shock glass ceramics pane, and the ovens have a hardened glass pane.
For calculating the necessary power, it must be taken into account that for the heating of one
cubic metre, 25 to 180 Watts are necessary, depending on the exposure, the insulation, the outside
temperature and the wind.
It is known that the correlation between the price and the caloricity of the chosen fuel indicates
that the heating with solid fuel is the most economical method. As a result of the long experience
and the tests carried out in the laboratories of "Prity 95" Ltd., optimum characteristics and 60-80 %
efficiency for all produced fireboxes, stoves and boilers have been achieved.


Specific Models of Fireplaces:
With these models no marked decorative effect is sought, because of which no glass ceramics is
inserted. In return for this it is stressed (emphasized) on their functionalism.
- Solid fuel cookers suitable for households which rear domestic animals;
- Boilers - they are intended for setting up in ground floor premises with a possibility to
store coal. The boilers are provided with a capillary thermostat for control and regulation
of the air necessary for the burning process. In this way, a uniform and economical
combustion of the fuel is achieved, as the water is heated till a fixed desired temperature,
adjusted beforehand by means of turning the switch of the thermostat. When turning the
switch clockwise the temperature increases, at which the thermostat breaks the primary air
flow off.


INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

The fireplace is placed on a stable horizontal fireproof floor. For protecting the floor a stable
and fireproof base can be used, which shall stick out before the fireplace at least 50 cm in front and
30 cm at the side.
In the radiating area of the fireplace, at a distance of 80 cm around her shall not be there any
objects burnable and damageable by the radiated heat.
Prior to connect (Before connecting) the fireplace to the chimney, consult a skilled worker.
The connecting elements (rosette and smoking pipes) shall be fixed tightly and lasting, so that
they may not get into (enter) the passage section of the chimney. The smoking pipes shall have the same size as the connecting pipe of the fireplace.
It is advisable that the fireplace work with a separate chimney. If other appliances are connected
to the same chimney, it shall be calculated for that.
Fresh air shall enter (get in) the fireplace at least 4m3/h When necessary a flow from adjacent premises or outside air is ensured. The burning process of the fireplace shall not feel shortage of air on the action of gravitational or forced aspirations, since this is a prerequisite for insufficient combustion or returning of flue gases in the premises.






GENERAL RULES AND RECOMMENDATIONS

1. Before the installation building, it is recommended the heat losses to be calculated by a specialist
for the concrete case.
2. The installation must be connected to the atmosphere with an open expansion vessel, when the
system is open.
3. De-aeration of each branch and element of the installation in each moment of its operation has to
be ensured.
4. All of the elements of the installation must be ensured against freezing, especially if the
expansion vessel or other parts of it are located in non-heated premises.
5. In the installations with forced circulation the pump must be provided with UPS - an
accumulator with a transducer 12 V/220/V50 Hz on autonomous regime.
It is recommended that the circulation pump be switched on and off by a thermostat, duplicated
with a manual electrical switch.
Diagram:



6. The first service cleaning of the pump filter must be done immediately after testing the
installation.
7. If an old installation is used, then it shall be repeatedly sluiced to remove the accumulated
(lodged) residue, which would precipitate on the surfaces of the water jacket.
8. Coal with increased sulphur content must not be used and don't allow the coal get wet.
9. Fresh and wet wood or vegetation shall not be used. The logs shall be stored at least two
years in a dry and airy place.
10. The circulating water shall not be drained out during the non-heating season.
During the 3-4 kindlings it is possible to form condensation on the surfaces of the water jacket.
The forming soot decreases the sudden temperature difference and the quantity of the
condensation.


OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS
The fireplace with a water jacket functions on the principle of a water heating boiler. The
advantage of this kind of heating system is the maximum use of the heat released during the
burning process. With this method the warmth from the firebox is lead away to premises which are
distant and difficult to access for a usual heat exchange, with the purpose of maintaining a uniform
temperature and heat comfort.


Fuel

Use only raw chemical natural wood, as well as wooden briquettes without adhesives.
It is important that the wood be dry. Dry are called those logs which have humidity under 20 %.
This is achieved when they stay in a dry and airy place at least for 2 years. The wood shall be kept
chopped and arranged, as their thickness shall be between 5 and 15 cm.
Why humid wood shall not be used?
1. The humidity in the wood decreases their warmth when burning. A big part of the heat is
spent on evaporation of the water, and the rest can turn out insufficient to ensure the
necessary heating. For example, 20 kg humid wood can mean 10 kg dry wood and 10
litres water, added to the fire.
2. The water vapour decreases the combustion temperature and contributes to the formation
of soot which accumulates and forms a black hard layer on the walls of the combustion
chamber, glass ceramics, pipes and the chimney.
3. The pollution of the environment increases because the gases leave the chimney unburnt.


Kindling
The destination of the kindling is to warm the walls of the combustion chamber, the pipes and
the chimney up to create draught through a stable blazing fire without being necessary to open the
door often to finish its preparation.
1. Before kindling clean the ash off the grate.
2. Open the valves for the primary air and for the flue gases completely.
3. Put two chopped pieces of wood in the combustion chamber, parallel to one another, from
both sides of the grate.
4. Crush a paper and put it on the front part of the grate among the logs. Don't use glossy or
impregnated paper.
5. Put small dry twigs or sticks on the paper. It is preferable easy burning kindling of
softwood. Arrange the kindling, so that they may not fall down and stifle the arising fire.
Put some finely chopped logs.
6. Kindle the paper. When the paper burns up, close the door of the combustion chamber.
7. Leave the valve of the primary air entirely open, while the flame spread all over the whole
combustion chamber.
The thermo resistant paint, with which the fireplaces have been painted, is dried by compulsion in
the producer's factories, and during the first one or two kindles it self-bakes and becomes
mechanically stable.


Fuelling with wood
The radiated heat from the fire is not permanent in time, since the logs burn in the best way in
cycles. Cycle is the time from the kindling of the logs put on the embers till their reduction to a new
layer of embers. Each cycle can ensure heating for various periods of time depending on how much
logs and how big they are and how they are fuelled.
The finely chopped logs, flung about crosswise burn more quickly because the entering air is
able to reach all the pieces simultaneously. Such arrangement is suitable when the heat is necessary to be given off intensively.
To achieve a long stable fire, gather the embers on the grate and put bigger logs compactly on
them. The close and parallel arrangement of the logs prevents penetrating of air and flames among
them and preserves the interior of the pile to burn later. Open entirely the primary air. When the
logs, most outside kindle, decrease the air to achieve the intensity of burning desired by you.
How many logs are necessary depends on the output (power) of the fireplace and the desired
heating. The amount of dry logs to fuel is 0.36 to 0,5 kg per hour for each kilowatt useful heat
output. The smaller number is for drier logs.


Signs of right burning
1. Burning shall run in the presence of flames till the logs convert into embers. The purpose
is not to allow any smouldering and smoking. The smoke is no normal product during the
burning of the logs, and it is a consequence of bad combustion.
2. If there are fireproof bricks in the fireplace, they shall maintain their natural colour in
yellow-brown, not in black.
3. With dried logs and sufficient primary air an immediate kindling must be achieved on
each new refueling.
4. The glass ceramics of the door (if there is any) must remain clean.
5. The gases going out of the top of the chimney must be transparent or white. The grey
smoke indicates that there is smouldering or bad burning.


Chimney
The chimney is intended to draw the combustion products out of the fireplace and to throw
them away in the atmosphere beyond (outside the limits of) the abode.
The upward draught or the "pulling" of the chimney is a result of the combination between its
height and the difference in the temperatures of the flue gases and the air outside. The column of
hot flue gases in the chimney has smaller weight than the equivalent column cold air outside, so
that the pressure in the lower end in the warm chimney is smaller than the atmospheric (air)
pressure outside. This quite small difference in the pressures creates the draught.
The lower draught is a prerequisite for difficult kindling or returning of flue gases, and it is
overcome through quick kindling and burning of dry, thin and fast-burning sticks and paper. After
kindling of the fire and warming up of the chimney, its draught increases. For economical regime
and high efficiency after the warming up of the chimney, the draught must be decreased to 5-10 Pa, so that there may be no return of the flue gases (smoking) with a closed door.


The main causes of insufficient draught are the following:
- layering of soot inside the chimney, which decreases its diameter and increases the
resistance of the rising flue gases;
- a cracked wall of the chimney or a loose rosette;
- loose smoke pipes, or pipes pushed deeply in the chimney, as in this way they decrease the
diameter or plug up the chimney;
- The use of a single chimney with a small draught by several stoves on the same level (in
close proximity);
- Smoking also appears when the weather outside has suddenly got warmer - The warm
gases from the kindling of the fire can't escape through the cold chimney. In this case a
bigger amount of quickly burning sticks and paper is used. The same effect takes place

while attempting to kindle a fire on the first (ground) floor, provided the same or an
adjacent chimney is already being used by a fireplace on the top floor;
- when the ceiling is not air-tight or there are open windows on an upper floor, the effect
"staircase-chimney" takes place, creating a reverse draught;
- When a chimney is located in an area of overpressure caused by a wind.

On right connection, servicing and maintenance the fireplace doesn't give off smoking
emissions in the premises. If nevertheless this occurs, the premises are aired and the cause of the
filling with smoke must be found out and removed.


Don't burn:
garbage, stuck or painted softwood, plywood or boards of wooden parts, wooden
sleepers or other refuse containing artificial chemical admixtures, since poisons don't burn, but
only change their composition and when they are thrown away in the atmosphere, they lead to
unpredictable consequences.


Cleaning, maintaining and preservation
During operation the door of the fireplace must be closed. On opening of the door to refuel, the
openings for the primary air are closed and one shall be careful not to drop down fuel and prevent it from falling out of the fireplace.
The power of the fireplace is regulated with the help of the valves for the primary air and on the
outlet for the flue gases.
The cooking stoves are switched over in regime "baking" through pulling out the valve over the
oven.
Don't touch the fireplace with your bare hands, while it is hot.
The ash-pan shall be cleaned daily. Don't throw the ash in plastic vessels.
Clean regularly the passage sections of the flue gases in the fireplace and the pipes.
The painted surfaces are cleaned with a damp cloth. Don't use cleaning detergents. If you want
to freshen the paint, use a suitable phial of sprayer.
To clean easier the cavities in the cooking stove the movable bottom of the oven is raised.
The glass pane is wiped with a damp towel, and when necessary it can be washed with cleaning
detergents or water. The hardened glass panes are washed and dried when cold.
To prevent the condensation and a possible corrosion, when the fireplace is not operated for a
long time (for example during the non-heating period), it must be cleaned from the ash and
remainders of fuel, and the adjusting elements - open, for a better circulation around and through
the fireplace.
Do dot perform any unauthorized modifications in the design!
During repairs only original spare parts by the producers shall be used.

- The company operates a guarantee and post-guarantee service and can replace water jackets.
- The guarantee is not valid for fireplaces with bulging water jackets, which are a result of
the increased pressure in the system beyond the admissible one on incorrect installation.
- It is recommended that the installation be done by a skilled specialist.